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We’ve seen Kate Moss knock off her own designer wardrobe for Topshop, had M, Madonna’s money-saving ranges for H&M, and “Lily [Allen] Loves” a bargain at New Look. But cheap-as-chips celebrity collaborations are looking old hat compared with a new wave of tie-ups that have more than just self-promotion and the retailer’s bottom line in mind.
Natalie Portman, the star of films such as Mr Magorium’s Wonder Emporium and the Star Wars prequels, is going one step further by designing her own vegan-friendly shoes for a New York boutique. The collection, for the Manhattan shoe emporium T Casan, goes on sale next month although keen shoppers can place pre-orders from 15 January. The vegetarian actor’s designs will sell for about $200 (100), making them a cheaper alternative to Stella McCartney’s leather-eschewing shoes which sell for at least 295.
So far eco-minded celebrity alliances have been few and far between, but retail experts predict that Portman’s shoes are the future of high street fashion for 2008. Leona Lewis, the X Factor winner turned pop diva and a fellow vegetarian, last week said she would “love” to create her own range of affordable non-leather bags and shoes.
Meanwhile, Debenhams has allied itself with Sir Steve Redgrave, the Olympic oarsman, who has put his name to a clothing range made with Fairtrade cotton that will go on sale for Fairtrade fortnight next month. 
And Katharine Hamnett, the fashion designer, is searching for a new high street partner after axing her nascent alliance with Tesco for her range of T-shirts made from organic cotton. Even Pamela Anderson, a spokeswoman for People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, has done her bit with a cruelty-free clothing line.
Richard Hyman, who runs Verdict Consulting, a retail consultancy, said shops ploughing the well-trodden celebrity endorsement route would not be enough of a draw for saturated shoppers. “This year shops will have to find the right endorsement that is sympathetic to their marketplace,” he said, adding that tapping into the consumers’ blossoming ethical consciousness with targeted tie-ups was one option retailers would choose. “Retailing today needs to be about offering a genuine point of difference,” he added.
Lauretta Roberts, editor of the trade fashion magazine Drapers, said eco-fashion was the “number one cause at the moment”, predicting more collaborations. “I don’t think we’ve had Lily Loves Organic Cotton. Not yet, anyway.” But she cautioned: “Whoever does it, both in terms of the celebrity and the fashion brand, would have to think very carefully. It would need to be a credible pairing on both sides, as you’re just asking for people to scrutinise your behaviour and business practices if you style yourself as an eco-warrior.”
Anya Hindmarch, the luxury handbag designer, knows this only too well. Despite being for an ethical cause, her limited-edition “I’m not a plastic bag” cloth bag, sold by Sainsbury’s, hit the headlines for the wrong reasons after it emerged it was made in China using cheap labour even though the supermarket said the factory pays double the minimum wage.
And although McCartney makes vegetarian-friendly shoes and clothes, Ethical Consumer magazine, which advises consumers where to shop on ethical grounds, points out that the designer’s eponymous label is owned by PPR, the luxury fashion giant behind several other lines that use furs such as fox, badger and mink.
Portman’s shoes will be made without animal ingredients: leather, fur and feathers are all off-limits. T Casan has said it will donate 5 per cent of the range’s profits to charity.
Natalie Portman
The most glamorous of the new wave of ethical fashion champions, the actress has designed a collection of red-carpet-ready shoes that are fit for vegetarians such as herself. Now all she needs is an Oscar nomination
Sir Steve Redgrave
An unlikely eco-fashion warrior, perhaps, but the multiple Olympic gold medallist rower clearly has principles to protect. A range of Fairtrade cotton clothing bearing his name goes into Debenhams stores next month
Katharine Hamnett
The organic cotton pioneer may have terminated her contract with Tesco to produce environmentally friendly T-shirts, but her sentiment remains. Expect to see more of the same from the designer soon
Anya Hindmarch
The handbag designer sought to do her bit for the planet with a highly covetable reusable carrier bag. How many of the limited edition run ever made contact with the weekly shop, however, is another matter altogether
Pamela Anderson
The ex-‘Baywatch’ star, an ardent vegetarian, has turned fashion designer with a range of “cruelty-free” clothing, which debuted in 2004. A percentage of the profits went to Peta, the anti-fur animal charity
Too often corporations disappoint us with their lack of environmental concern or disingenuous green washing. In my recent research, however, I have found one global retailer standing tall above the corporate crowd. For the record, I’m not trying to sell you anything . . . simply, I like this company’s look, discovered they are environmentally conscious, and think you should know about it.
Unlike most corporations trying–just now–to hitch a free ride on the “green bandwagon,” The Timberland Company maintains a long history of environmental stewardship that began by partnering with the Coalition for Environmentally Responsible Economies (CERES) in 1993. Today, 240 of Timberland’s global retail stores are completely carbon neutral; the company’s Ontario, California distribution center receives approximately 60% of its energy from solar power, while employees receive $3,000 toward the purchase of a hybrid. The list goes on to include 170 earth-day service projects, 40 hours paid-employee community-service, and the company’s, “Plant One On Us” promotion that plants a tree for every $150 in sales revenue.
Most notable of all is Timberland devotion to customer and industry education. Whether through public facility reports, labels outlining the impact of specific products, or national conferences held to educate the retail community, Timberland is committed to sharing their initiatives with consumers and competitors alike.
Case in point, Timberland produces a publicly available facility-level sustainability report that details baseline performance information in the areas of global human rights, environmental stewardship and community involvement. The report is available in English and Spanish on the company’s website.
If looking up the data is too tedious, consumers can read information printed on the company’s recycled-paper shoeboxes and soy-based hangtags. Shoeboxes sport a simple label (matching “Nutrition Facts” found on food packaging) that provides corporate-specific information such as the average number of kilowatt-hours and percentage of renewable energy used by Timberland.
Similarly, some Timberland outdoor performance products include a “Green Index” hangtag, which measures and reports on the product’s environmental impact in three key areas:
o Climate impact: measures emissions produced from raw material extraction through manufacturing.
o Chemicals used: based on the presence of PVC and solvent adhesives.
o Materials used: measures the use of organic, recycled or renewable.
With the “Green Index,” the lower the rating, the lower the environmental impact. Zero (0) indicates the smallest environmental footprint; while ten (10) means there’s work to be done. The rating is partially determined by the GaBi software program’s analysis of raw materials used and energy dispelled during production. The company plans to have a Green Index for every product across the brand by 2009/2010 and is currently working with other retail chains to create a universal measurement system.
This effort to share information with customers and competing retail conglomerates is what makes Timberland a true environmental leader and corporate exemplar. In 2007 Timberland won Backpacker Magazine’s Editors’ Choice Green Award. Upon receipt of the award, Timberland humbly responded, “our hope is that other like-minded companies will join us in developing an industry-wide index for comparing the environmental impacts of our design choices and we also hope to inspire consumers to ask questions, and make informed decisions about their purchases.” With this goal in mind, Timberland is currently working with Levi’s Strauss, to share information, conduct joint assessments and communicate remediation. According to Betsy Blaisdell, leader of Timerland’s environmental stewardship program, “the goal behind all of this cross-brand effort is to spend less time policing and more time encouraging improved environmental performance and workplace conditions.”
Going forward, Timberland has devised an ambitious plan to maintain their environmental leadership. Their goal: “all Timberland owned and operated facilities and employee travel is carbon neutral by 2010.” Audacious and unrealistic? I don’t think so! As seen from the examples above, they are well on their way.
Source: Huffington Post, Author: Follow Olivia Zaleski on Twitter: www.twitter.com/oliviazaleski
There is mounting evidence of a green jobs revolution that promises to transform the workplace across the nation. Media pundits, business leaders, activists, and politicians claim that the Green Economy will create millions of new jobs, lead us out of recession and, in the process, transform our economy into a 21st century engine of prosperity.
On the other hand, there is also a great deal of rhetoric and hype about this phenomenon and we should stand back and analyze what is really happening. The truth is that a massive economic transition doesn’t happen overnight. Training and hiring millions of people for green jobs demands time, financial investment, and an adjustment of expectations about the very look and feel of a 21st century labor force that is fostering sustainable change.
I have worked in executive search and recruitment sector for over 20 years and in the environmental sector for 10 years. So I am very excited by the growth in Green Jobs and, in 2007, my partners and I founded a search firm called Bright Green Talent, which places environmental leaders and professional in green organizations worldwide. Our understanding of the hurdles we’ve yet to overcome in this field comes from the daily conversations we have with environmental and socially conscious companies about their needs and challenges.
As specialist recruiters in San Francisco and London, every day we see and wrestle with the emerging realities of the green labor market. For example, we see how America’s lack of investment in engineering talent has left it short-staffed of renewable energy modelers and LEED Certified HVAC professionals to fuel this green labor revolution.
Indeed, there are a number of barriers to the development of the Green Economy and its creation of new employment. When we are able to overcome these barriers we will make major progress in our search for solutions to our most pressing environmental problems.
1) The Impact of a Recession. Sean Martin, a Principal at Blu Skye Consulting, a sustainability consulting firm in San Francisco, says that their clients are adapting quickly to the troubled economy: “The nature of the requests [we receive] are getting much more focused on cost savings. While that element has always been there, it seems to be louder as of late.”
Going green can lead to greater organizational efficiency and long-term costs savings, though it’s often perceived as an added burden in a tough economic time. Companies that are driven by green missions are especially challenged to prove their worth and excellence. Credibility and long-term relationships are essential to encourage green innovation and, in the process, demonstrate to skeptics that green business practices truly do deliver a measurable return on investment.
2) Talent shortages. The lack of qualified workers is impeding the growth of many green industries, and there’s little sign of relief. Bright Green works with Silicon Valley solar companies that have received tens (if not hundreds) of millions of dollars in venture capital funding, but, even so, can’t find experienced businesspeople to put that money to good use. The capabilities and knowledge needed to be successful is so new that even seasoned executives, brought into companies, often need a crash course in the art of effective, green business practice.
To make matters more difficult, organizations are applying 20th century hiring expectations to 21st century industries. As recruiters we consistently have to address the gap between the perceived skill set necessary to succeed in a position and the reality of the marketplace.
People simply don’t have a dozen years’ experience in solar system design or cleantech venture capital. These industries didn’t exist back then, and even having five years experience often means you’re an old hand. As a consequence, employers are turning to candidates who have a track record in the general business, even if they have neither environmental experience nor even values. Ultimately, these folks may negatively impact their corporate culture as they may not care about the planet, and will end up harming a firm’s credibility in the marketplace. The very people who are needed to grow these businesses sometimes risk compromising the mission of their new employer.
The green jobs movement will need to invest millions in training programs — and at times take calculated risks — in order to bring on board green employees who can both do a good job and help keep a company’s reputation clean and green. Activists and policymakers who have long lobbied to see legislation passed that supports these programs (as Bright Green recently did with California Senate Bill 1672) still have a lot more to do.
What’s become obvious from a human capital point of view is that credibility is the key to attracting not only consumers, but employees. Indeed, on many levels, it’s the main competitive differentiator for both the consumers and employees in choosing a brand or company.
3) Greenwashing. Companies are now having to be more accountable and authentic to maintain their green reputation. Many are seeing the green opportunity as a short-term branding opportunity and face mounting consumer and competitive pressure. The recent influx of “green” products in all categories makes it difficult for consumers to sort out who’s green and who’s not. Prospective employees also want to be reassured by the organization’s green credentials.
Many graduates, as well as experienced professionals and executives, are looking to join a new hybrid organization that combines the entrepreneurial energies of a business with the compassion and impact of a non-profit. These green social enterprises should flourish and help to develop a distinctive, emerging green workforce. There seems to be a profound passion and commitment to doing things differently, and many employees are looking for more than just a paycheck or a career. They see themselves as change agents, promoting more sustainable business practices, and “green jobs” seems to represent an exciting new labor market. Whatever it is, it’s a new system that’s inherently different from our current labor force.
Greenwashing ultimately hurts both industry and the planet and incongruent businesses will likely suffer over the long haul. Genuine talent will either look elsewhere or leave once the initial allure fades.
4) The Need for Government Regulation. Underpinning — and at times unlocking — these challenges is the need for increased government policies, subsidies and laws. Without these it will be difficult for sectors like renewable energy to prosper.
Currently, fossil fuels receive enormous subsidies and many solar, wind and other technologies are still in their infancy and need local, state and, above all, federal support to flourish.
A clear and tangible commitment from Washington will be critical to ensuring the long-term viability of the Green Economy. Thankfully, 2009 promises to see more progressive regulation with both candidates embracing a forward-looking domestic energy agenda. Internationally, agreeing on a successor to the Kyoto Protocol and creating an international authority for carbon trading and investment will be positive next steps towards an integrated, stable global economy that properly accounts for carbon and guards against damaging environmental practices.
Indeed, change is afoot, and it’s keeping both our hopes alive and spirits high.
As for the talent shortages, MBA students are integrating the need for the green business skills into their core coursework, with many programs now offering a “green business” track in sustainability to prepare their students for multi-faceted, 21st century leadership roles. The Aspen Institute reported this year that the percentage of MBA programs requiring their students to take courses focused on business and society issues jumped from 34 percent in 2006 to 63 percent in 2007.
Having built a business on the belief that our economy is capable of becoming truly sustainable, we’re optimists. Despite the challenges, we’re driving towards a green economy more quickly than anticipated. Green companies that focus on creating meaning in the work place while delivering excellent quality products and services will continue to find the bright, talented people to lead their green teams in pursuit of greater market share and a greener planet.
Source: GreenBiz.com, Author: Paul Hannam
Hopes that Gordon Brown and other world leaders would solve the financial crisis and global warming through a series of “green New Deals” are fading faster than solar power on a rainy day.
The vast bulk of new public spending announced in global economic stimuli seems largely “business as usual”, with major cash injections being directed towards banks and car companies rather than renewable energy firms.
Some countries – notably the US and China – have been more adventurous, while wind energy and other sustainable technologies certainly stand to gain from wider ministerial efforts to unlock financial lending. But the air in recent weeks has been thick with the sound of “green” schemes dropping off the corporate agenda at top firms, such as Shell, rather than the gentle hum of increased activity.
And despite a barrage of green rhetoric, Britain has only committed £1.5bn to sustainability as part of its £25bn reflationary package, less than a third of France, a sixth of Germany and 100 times less than China, according to analysts at HSBC Bank.
Barack Obama is heavily promoting solar and clean technology, but even the popular new US president is struggling to convince Congress that his green plans will build wealth instead of destroy it. What more could G20 ministers do now to rebuild their economies in a more sustainable way?
1 The UN should set up a renewable energy agency to promote sustainable schemes and match the atomic energy agency. There also needs to be a UN climate change commissioner who would encourage governments to present a coherent green message across all aspects of public policy, from housing to healthcare, and not just specifically on the economy. A network of low-carbon innovation centres across key developing countries should be funded by G8 members, which could develop local and small-scale field trials on biomass and other sustainable energy projects. A similar system has already successfully been used in agriculture.
2 Major banks have been nationalised by governments around the world, providing a perfect opportunity for ministers to steer lenders in a new direction. Private money needs to be siphoned into a sustainable future through more forward-looking banks and finance houses. These key institutions need to abandon their sole focus on short-term profit maximisation in favour of a long-term, non-profit performance view. The Irish government has already indicated it will require ring-fenced programmes for investment in renewable energy from the banks it is supporting.
3 Much more public money needs to be pumped into research and development of new energy sources as well as directly into large-scale renewable projects. Industrialised countries should encourage the development of massive solar farms being constructed in places such as northern Africa with huge long distance and subsea cables allowing them to pump electricity to “smart grids” around continental Europe and beyond. The intermittent nature of this power should be backed up by smarter demand management, special power storage – and nuclear. There should be a relentless drive to electrify the transport network – with a timetable for discontinuing the operation of all petrol-driven private cars, buses and other forms of public transport.
4 Energy efficiency is one of the quickest and most important ways of dealing with the impending power crunch. Financial incentives should encourage people to lag the loft, put in draught-proof windows and use condensing boilers – or better still heat pumps – along with compact fluorescent lamps and other measures. When the property changes hands, the outgoing homeowners would have to prove they had taken all steps to make the property energy-efficient – or face penalties. Industry has been taking steps to improve the amount of energy it uses to produce a certain amount of goods, but Britain and others could follow Japan which has made enormous steps forward to improve its industrial efficiency.
5 Carbon taxes should be used to restructure the EU’s emissions trading scheme and ensure a higher and more stable price for carbon, which would drive change across the economy.The scheme needs a system of carbon tax-based floors and ceilings to make it function more effectively. There should also be more auctioning of the pollution certificates so the price can be driven up from its existing low level of €11 per tonne, which has undermined the system and put a brake on the clean development mechanism used to fund new clean energy schemes in the developing world.
CONSCIOUS VENTURES 